Every year in America the month of Ramadan passes by with little change or notice; however and perhaps obviously, in a Muslim country, life and people’s attitudes and schedules are completely altered as they observe the holiest month of the Muslim Calendar.

The religious obligations for Muslims during Ramadan is to abstain from eating, drinking, and smoking from sun-up to sun-down every day for a month. Other habits, such as drinking alcohol, premarital sex, drug use etc., are forbidden in Islam but may or may not be observed during the year, depending on the religious devotion of the person. During Ramadan, however, they are avoided particularly during the day, and oftentimes throughout the entire month. Furthermore, it is required of Muslims to continue to work throughout the duration of the month. According to a devout Muslim friend of mine, the religious significance behind the fasting is for every Muslim to step into the shoes of a person who is less fortunate and perhaps cannot afford food regularly. Through fasting, Muslims gain sympathy for the underprivileged and hopefully increase the zakat, or charity, they give. Additionally, it is supposed to be a time for family and prayer.

The religious “rules” for Ramadan cause a very interesting shift in the every day reality in Muslim countries. First and foremost, their schedules change drastically; many Moroccans wake up at around 4 am to eat breakfast before the sun comes up. Afterwards, they sleep until about 10 am and then begin their day. As soon as the call to prayer is rung, at around 6:30 or 7 pm (sunset), all Moroccans run to have break fast. Many Moroccans also eat dinner at about midnight or 1 am, before retiring to bed. Having had break fast with some different families and friends, it was comforting to observe the relative uniformity of the traditional break fast: dates (which are unbelievably delicious in Morocco), harira (a tomato-based soup with chickpeas, barley or rice, and sometimes meat), shabbakia (a fried dough-cookie that is marinated in honey and sprinkled with sesame seeds), m’lawi (a layered, doughy, savory pancake that is grilled giving it a crunchy exterior and a stretchy, chewy interior. It is sometimes stuffed with fried onions or meat.), and always a milk based smoothie that has fruit, orange flower, and stale bread in it. It is definitely an interesting mix of sweet and savory, but delicious, nonetheless. Dinner and breakfast usually include “normal” Moroccan fare.

Life outside the home also changes drastically during the month of Ramadan. Stores, shops etc. do not open until later in the morning because the owners are sleeping. Many restaurants and cafes not in central or touristy areas are closed during the day, and it is not uncommon to find an irritable or cranky Moroccan, particularly after 4 pm. What was especially bizarre for me, particularly the first time I was aware of it in Tangier, was the nature of the cities from around 6:15 pm to about 830 pm every single night. My hotel was located on a very busy, central street in Tangier and my first night there I stepped onto the sidewalk at about 630 and found the street completely, almost eerily, deserted. As the entire country observes the fast, EVERYONE returns home for break fast at precisely the same time, leaving the country virtually lifeless during this special time. At about 9 pm, however, it is as if the country does a complete 180, and all the people that were fasting, tired and hungry all day, emerge on the streets, nourished and in good spirits. Cafes are filled to the brim with men drinking coffee, smoking cigarettes, and playing cards, while women are found in groups all over the streets chatting or watching their children play around.

A few other interesting notes about Ramadan’s observance in Morocco… Unlike some other Muslim countries, all Moroccans fast, without question. And fasting is not only religiously mandated, but partially government enforced. I heard from hotel/restaurant owners that serving a Muslim during the day during Ramadan can “cause trouble” for them, and it was rumored that if a Muslim is found eating/drinking/smoking during Ramadan, they could be imprisoned or worse. While I never witnessed this firsthand, I heard the rumors.

While Ramadan may have been slightly inconvenient for me, as a tourist in Morocco, it felt like a special and different time to be in Morocco. Except for the cranky few, the Moroccans generally attempt to behave even more nicely and appropriately than usual, and the devotion not only to the religion, but also to the cultural customs and practices associated with the eid (holiday) was truly refreshing. In their attempts to recognize the difficulties of others and cleanse their spirits after a year, it seemed to me that the Moroccan Muslims were also trying to refocus their attention to the importance of family and tradition, and I believe that anyone, from any religious background, can recognize the importance and value in such a nationwide effort.